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ib hooks hand sharpened
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In reply to Post #21 Gardner rigger bcr is a beast of a chod hook.
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In reply to Post #20 Every time I tried it. I stopped trying in the end.
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In reply to Post #18 didn't realise that was what you were saying - I have the barb snap off but no issue with the hook point ever going.
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I'd avoid esp, I've had one cryogen snap in half and one trigga bend out fully. Never had that with any other hook
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In reply to Post #17 It wasn't the barb, it was the entire hook point, try it yourself if you get the chance.
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In reply to Post #15 Sure, it makes sense that the barbs snap - v high hardness and only a mm thick.
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In reply to Post #15 I still use conti's for 90% of my fishing - agree about the barbs - metal snaps every time.
Only time I have ever had a conti snap was a direct pull with 30lb braid on a snag, just below the eye where I had bent it for bottom bait fishing. Can't think of them ever bending out on a fish either - maybe once or twice over the years.
Not great for Chods IMO - the eyes are too small for most filaments to double back through
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In reply to Post #14 Have a go at compressing the barb on a conti, I'd be interested in others results.
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In reply to Post #13 All carp hooks are hardened/heat treated. But there is a huge range of hardnesses. The real stiff ones are 550 HV +, the softer ones are 400-450 HV. I worked in metal forming/heat treating for nearly 20 years and managed the quality and lab teams for 15 of those so I know a bit about it.
Carp hooks are made from spring steels (various grades of carbon steel). They're hardened/tempered, austempered, or cryogenically hardened depending on the supplier and the exact grade of steel.They act as a spring during the fight which is critical- they need to flex.
I actually tested a load of hooks in my lab years back and posted the results on here. The korda were soft as you like but that's still very, very hard compared to a mild i.e. low carbon steel. No carp hooks use low carbon steel, you'd be able to bend them by hand (<200 HV).
You need to go past 600 HV to get really brittle, but that doesn't mean they can't snap at less than that, especially near the bend where the yield strength (of the steel prior to heat treatment) has already been exceeded during forming.
The Conti's and the Choddas are right up at 550ish ... tough as old boots.... but not so hard that they'll snap during the fight.
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In reply to Post #11 If they sharpen that easily then they're not hardened steel, hardened steel gets brittle, harder to sharpen keep their point for longer but more prone to suddenly snapping. The milder steels less prone to snapping, more prone to bending. Glass is incredibly strong, also, incredibly brittle.
If you have a Drennan Conti., try closing the barb with pliers, I've tried and they snapped every time, I had to Dremel the barbs off.
As a previous poster has written, a smaller hook provides less leverage for the fish, goes in deeper and quicker and softer rods will take the strain off the hook with braided mainline.
There's a number of factors in play.
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Nash hooks are seriously strong, had a 75kg sturgeon on a size 6 Chod Twister, and the hook was still like new! Super sharp straight out of the pack. I’ve bent out a J Precision Curve before, but still prefer J Precision when I can use hand-sharpened hooks.
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In reply to Post #10 Nope - decent hooks. But I know from sharpening them that they're not as tough as others. Tbf, I was referring to the JP Precision Points range - not the Advanced range (which I've never tried). The Precisions, and the Korda's, can be licked sharp by a kitten. Doesn't mean they're bad hooks - but just not as tough as others
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In reply to Post #9 Have you had bad experiences with these hooks ?
https://www.jprecisionhooks.co.uk/products/advanced-chod
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In reply to Post #8 Yup, savagely strong. Those recommending Korda and J Precision.... decent hooks, but strongest? Miles off lads.
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