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In reply to Post #27
I have previously done a single overhand knot and blobbed the tag end, then tightened the alright down until the overhand snugs up to the back of the knot.
With two pullers and testing to destruction it makes it bulletproof.
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In reply to Post #25
If you are worried about an Albright coming undone consider either a Rizutto finish with the tag end (a simple whipped lock) and/or a tiny dab of superglue.
I’ve never had one come apart and have caught some big fish on them.
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In reply to Post #25
I find that when you go for a stiffer coated outer material you will often find that the inner braid has more memory in it so will not be as supple and can often sit up slightly.
I have never had a Albright knot go, so cant see why it would be seen as a unreliable knot. Does take some skill to get right but one of the better knots for this application imo
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In reply to Post #23
I don't know why people bother tieing two materials together with a knot that can be very unreliable.
You can get the very same outcome (better imo) using a coated braid with a figure of 8 knot tied both ends and the coating stripped back just under the knot at one end or further down the coated braid if you need more length
If you need a stiffer boom use a stiffer coated braid, you want more supple use a softer one or even a thick leader braid works really well.
All that scaffolding and complexity does nothing to catch fish. Just lines the pockets of a few brands
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In reply to Post #23
It's very personal and takes some experimenting. I prefer it somewhere between 5 and 10mm. Any longer and I'm questioning if it's going to tangle.
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What length of exposed supple material would you say is optimal between the kicker and Albright knot?
Or another way of asking is; how much is too much and how much is too little?
Having recently switched to tying and using this rig I’m still experimenting. I’m using it as a slip-D multi with size4 hook.
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The business end, size 4 Tic wide gape, sharpened.
Albright knot with doubled over braid to form a slip D, allows easy hook changes.
Double overhand loop to form the knot using 30lb amnesia. Seems more reliable than a figure of eight knot, especially in the heavier breaking strains. Always try a few options and test.
30lb amnesia for the boom.
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In reply to Post #8
Not if you loop it from the other end. Can pretty much get away with tiny loops...as hook size is irrelevant
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Albright the two materials and then a Snell knot to the hook. can get a soft section that is only a few mm
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In reply to Post #18
I saw it for first time in old Duncan de Gruchy video for Angling Lines.
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In reply to Post #17
The counterbalance shot on the tag end is something I first saw in Carpworld in an old Keith Moors article.
I have used it a few times for pop ups and it works great.
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In reply to Post #16
PB Products KD Hook in size 4. Gardner Mirage 18 lb mainline used as Fluorocarbon section and random piece of braid (I believe it was from Decathlon, bought for test).
LINKY POOâ„¢ Picture
Pop up rig need to be a bit shorter, but I guess this is work in progress.
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My take was I used to be manic about getting the braid as short as possible, and about 10mm was about the most consistent I got, however and I have used this extensively over the last few years, I now look for at least an inch. The short ones are essentially a Ronnie but longer ones with a proper aligner I have found so much better. Enough pivot to allow a bottom feeding fish to take the bait in (a wafter for me) with a friggin great lump of putty on the knot. I don't want the stiff boom in the mouth, I am now purely using as it allows very soft braid to be tangle proof.
The other thing that winds me up, and I have done it ! Is tying loops and Jonnie Mac style hook threading - for me this renders the best bits of the rig useless, even it 15lb braid you are using. 30lb hook section.
25lb boom with figure of 8 loop, Albright knot to Korda supernatural, size 10 barbless wide gape and short shrink tube aligner threaded with needle the proper way. Traditional braid hair with loop and putty over the knot to drop the hook.
I hand sharpen and ‘touch-up' hooks and due to the size of the hooks on easier waters you usually get a couple of fish without the need to change rigs.
I am so against compromise as I get older, and the ability to change hooks (to me) compromises the efficiency of many rigs. I can easily tie 10 up in an hour at home, properly test them and sharpen them and given the low cost of hooks the short lengths of braid used and I am not over fussy on the boom section (trakker, fox, Korda) it's a cheap rig to use all things considered.
Another hing I have learnt is shrink the tube before you sharpen the hook (as steam will rust sharpened hooks) dry thoroughly, coat tip in beeswax lip balm (I find this the cheapest best) pull tight to straighten on a rig board and job done. The Albright is a gift from the baby Jesus and it's not just practice it's about batch tying (for me) you need to fail a couple of times per batch to be confident that those on the boards are bullet proof.
God that's a long waffling post to say don't overthink the shortest section (imo)
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In reply to Post #13
I use that approach to make a combo multi rig
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In reply to Post #13
That is indeed the easiest and most repeatable manner 
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Rigs