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In reply to Post #20
Maybe, never had a failure though so that'll do for me.
Edit @Andy, have a look at those links below. Flaring is meant to prevent crushing/weakening of the mono on exit from the crimp. The people stating it have far more experience than the Carp fraternity.
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In reply to Post #19
Wychwood ones here too.
Mainly got them as they were the cheapest. 
The flare thing.... not questioning it, no complaints on it etc.... why do you all think the flare is better for the crimp strength and reliability?
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In reply to Post #19
You were probably crushing onto wire trace though?
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In reply to Post #17
I've got the Wychwood too, very much narrower jaws to create the 'flare'.
Edit, funny, in the 'old days' I used my Pike forceps to crimp crimps, or my narrow nosed electrical pliers (also used to remove trebles) who'd know nowadays only crimps pliers can do the job properly 
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In reply to Post #17
I've got the fox pliers... They've never made a crimp quite as well flared as that though?
Don't think it's user error. I'm crimping 0.6mm on the small hole setting.
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In reply to Post #16
Didn't realise Fox did them. I have a few pairs of Korda that I've acquired over the years, plus a Wychwood pair which are quite nice.
These Fox ones appear to maybe have slightly narrower jaws? If so, I like that..more PSI on the smaller jaw area and easier to leave the end flared. Another item for my 'want list' 
LINKY POO™ https://www.foxint.com/home/product/fox-edges-crimp-pliers?c=edges-tools
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In reply to Post #15
The Fox crimp tool is better than the korda,flare the loop side
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In reply to Post #14
Only issue I’ve got with that is that the jaws on my crimp tool (Korda mini crimper) are wider than the Korda Krimps they come with, so it’s impossible to leave flared ends either side. I guess I could flare one end, but which end would be better to flare, the looped side or the leader side?
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In reply to Post #1
Crimping properly just requires the correct corresponding materials / crimp size and a bit of tlc . . .if you don't do these things they don't work - simple and just like a crap knot
Duffers Guide to Crimping
Soz Vossy - think we posted in parallel! 
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I've only ever crimped pike traces. I read a article about Crimping mono and it said it should always be crimped in the middle with flares at the end to prevent weakening the mono, then I looked at the usual images by Korda etc and thought hmm. If it does weaken the line as stated and your only using 20lb boom material...well, that's where I left it.
I have bought a crimper/crimps but that was to make boom sections for match feeders ala Steve Ringer iirc.
It wasn't this site but it gives the same info
LINKY POO™ https://leadertec.com/big-game-fishing-tips-techniques/fishing-leader-crimping-techniques/
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In reply to Post #9
I was naive, and trusted Mr Nash. I'm older and more cynical nowadays. Strangely I have very little Nash tackle. Must be a subconscious aversion.
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In reply to Post #1
I started using crimps last hear and was lacking a bit in confidence about how to match line diameter, how hard to crush the crimp.
Did a half dozen test crimps and really strained and abused them with rig puller and gloves.
For the cost of a half dozen crimps and 2 metres of stiff link (sum total : numpence) I am going out with total confidence in my rigs (and had no failures during the year).
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In reply to Post #9
When I make booms I always make sure I'm using the right size crimp for the diamiter of line and always stress test after, not all line is suitable for crimping I read somewhere
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In reply to Post #7
What stops you testing a ready tied rig before you cast it out ???
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Ive found not overly crushing them is the key - struggled for ages then realised by squeezing them down to death i was damaging the material and they would go under testing.
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