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Not a multi rig as such but can utilise changing the hook still. I tie it the same as a multi but pull the loop tight against the eye ( coating left on coated braid), then mount a hookbait on a micro ring swivel with a hookbead. Big lump of putty on the knot as normal but use it for bottom baits.
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One more spanner to throw in with the way Mike Holly is tying it, is hookbait size. If tied like Mike has, with a Supple braided 'D', hookbaits can wrap around the hook. The hookbait needs to be bigger in diameter than the distance between the point of the hook and the eye.
As mentioned, to stop the D from slipping and pulling up tight to the eye, there's a match to be found between, hook eye diameter, braid diameter and if wanted, kicker/silicone. Mike is using tight fitting silicone to stop the small diameter braid slipping. Others use thick coated braid, small eye, with no kicker. Any combination of these will stop it slipping but there's 100s of combinations /components to try that'll work.
There is a difference in Ds between using coated braids and supple. A coated braids D will stay a D, in place (like a stiff D rig), where with a supple braid the D will fold back towards the eye.
I prefer a coated braid with a small eye, like the original. But have been playing with Mikes version as a combi rig. I've not yet found a combination of parts I'm happy with yet that don't slip though.
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In reply to Post #18
I use thinking anglers tungskin, or the Korda dark matter tungsten. Not stripped, it doesn't work unless its a coated braid that is intact. Tied to a Nash fang twister usually
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In reply to Post #15
He is using tubing as on his rig his loop is stripped so just braid which will slip, most other people are using the rig with coated braid as the loop which stays in position better
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In reply to Post #17
Was just thinking keeping d allows the ring to move up and down as Mike explains what rig material and hook do you use do you strip it
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In reply to Post #15
It works fine with no tubing, and you don't need the d to hold it's shape like a d rig tied with flouro does.
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In reply to Post #15
He uses 0.75 tubing. I use 1.0 tubing, or sometimes a kicker if I feel flash, and that works just fine. Make sure you find some thick walled tubing.
I use a multi rig on supple braid, ideal for short bag rigs.
If casting with no bag then I can still manage with supple braid and tight tubing.
Most lads will use unstripped hook length as the thicker loop is then tighter in the eye and it prevents any slippage, even with no tubing.
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In reply to Post #14
I’ve seen that vid bought the tubing it won’t go on its far to small think he made a mistake on the size of tubing he is using
And as for tying rig properly as I said in post i made my own i also bought ready made Korda multi rigs and they do the same there should have been a piece of tubing on rigs included as it
Lies flat on shank won’t keep the d shape let’s face it you have loop of material going through an eye what’s stopping it going flat
So why is someone like Mike holly using tubing if it works so well without it
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| | | Karlos | | Posts: 13328 |  | | [ MODERATOR ] | |
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In reply to Post #13
I'm also not sure exactly what is meant by collapsing, but the loop sliding and getting smaller happens every time you catch/play a fish.
If by collapsing he means that the loop doesn't stand proud off the back of the shank, that happens when the coating breaks/wears off.
I like and use ESP Tungsten coated/loaded.
I've found the coating easier to work with than the Korda N-Trap.
It goes through a size 4 Krank hook OK coated, size 6 is very tight.
That ESP chap done a video on it once, and he uses a small piece of silicon to go over the eye, I will try to find the video.
I often use a trimmed 'kicker', but sometimes nothing at all...depends how lazy I am feeling
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In reply to Post #11
I've never needed to add anything, if tied properly it won't ever slip
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In reply to Post #1
I've been ESP Two Tone Strip Teaze and Kryston Mantis. Both are original versions as I bought loads when they first came out. I think Jel-E Wyre is a good suggestion.
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In reply to Post #10
Agree with you. Wording is a bit odd.
In any case put a hook bead on to trap the loop behind. That’s what I’ve done for years now.
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In reply to Post #9
Yeah ,just seems an odd word to describe that happening
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In reply to Post #8
I Think he means the "D" loop through the hook eye and over the hook shank, probably moving on impact casting in, or winding back in.
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In reply to Post #7
What do you mean by collapsing?
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In reply to Post #1
I used coated braid n trap I cannot stop the d from collapsing I bought some korda ready mades
And they collapse had to use some tubing to hold d in place
People rave about this rig on YouTube and use it without tubing I must be doing something wrong
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Thanks folks. I have some Jel-E-Wire so Wii give that ago 👍
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In reply to Post #1
It has to be coated to work properly yes, the thinking anglers tungskin is my choice for the multi
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In reply to Post #3
Can second this been using jell-e wire for afew months now and been spot on.
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In reply to Post #1
Atomic Jel-e-Wyre for me.
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In reply to Post #1
Rigmarole Hydrolink been using it for years never had it slip once,I use the 25lb for size 4 muggas but for smaller hooks you may need to go the lighter version.
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Any suggestions for the best material for multi rig?. I'm assuming a coated braid is best?
A material for size 4-6 hooks and a lighter material for size 8-10 hooks (smaller eyes?) .
Something that will hold the "D" loop without the need for addition of tubing and something that will hold a slight curve.
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