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In reply to Post #50
salT. W. A. Ter doesn't look right 
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In reply to Post #46
Genuinely didnt know that.... thanks for the info 
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In reply to Post #49
That’s an interesting edit.
Substitute ‘marine’ species. Eg tarpon and giant trevally.
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In reply to Post #48
Exactly right.
I fly fish for big , ugly sal****er fish and use perfection loops in lines over 40 or 50 lb. Never in lighter stuff.
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In reply to Post #47
And remember that fly fishermen usually use the Perfection Loop at the thicker end of a tapered leader. At a guess it could lose 90% of line strength and still be stronger than the knot at the thin end of the leader attached to the fly. Carp fishing with a length of level line is very different.
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In reply to Post #46
Agreed. Fly anglers will sometimes risk a perfection loop when accurate casting is absolutely necessary. I think that using perfection loops would ruin my enjoyment of carp fishing because the relatively weak knot strength would weigh on my mind
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In reply to Post #45
Inefficient as in a 100% knot in 12 lb line breaks at 12lb.
the perfection loop is closer to a 50% knot.
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In reply to Post #44
I don't get what you mean by inefficient? anything over a 12lb and i have never had a issue with them and as OP stated its for a boom on a ronnie so guessing it would be heavier.
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In reply to Post #43
Perfection loops are fine in heavy line - but it is a very inefficient knot so not suitable for lighter lines.
Try a non-slip mono loop. It’s much more efficient and furthermore you can regulate the size of the loop as you tie it.
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In reply to Post #1
Perfection loop knot is also a good way of doing it.
Slightly more complicated but stronger and imo gives a better presentation of the loop.
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In reply to Post #39
Surely "sorry you are correct" is what you meant to say?
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In reply to Post #35
See was that so hard??
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In reply to Post #36
Yes your right its quite ironic really as load testing and calibration of load cells is still part of my job we no longer actually calibrate scales on site as due to bsi regs we have to have an external company in to certify them
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| | | Cam | | Posts: 6528 |  | | MODERATOR | |
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The heat is clearly getting to some...
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In reply to Post #35
Think you're wasting your time mate
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In reply to Post #34
does post 22 not give the reason? ok i will say it again with some physical meanings if it makes you happy?, do you agree when something is crimped a force is applied ? well it is
It is unlikely the mechanical force applied to the crimped material (line)will be equal on both sides of the crimp so when a loop is involved with nothing behind it one side of the line will move before the other which can cause slipping, friction and heat and result in premature failure.
When a crimp is applied direct to a swivel or ring etc the slipping, friction and heat doesn't occur the same so doesn't damage the line as much resulting in a stronger crimp.
Also how ironic of your dilusional quote "atm your looking like the normal idiots on fbook who make claims but actually understand none of it"
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In reply to Post #29
Your making a lot of noise but not actually backing up your claims which tells me I was right and it’s all bluff
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In reply to Post #32
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| | | noj | | Posts: 11459 | | | Social photographer... | |
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The easiest line/knot test without bouncing the needle of the scales around is hanging a bucket on the line and adding water or weights until it snaps. Simple physics lol
Truth be told it doesn’t matter, because only about 5% of carp rods will exert more than 8lb of pressure on the business end, I happily use 8-10lb mono hooklinks and they very very rarely go.
As citykoi says, if it doesn’t snap with a good tug on these heavy materials it’s generally mustard.
You can check rigs on scales without destroying them too. Just pull to your mainline equivalent bs
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Back on topic.... 
Just use Krimps.
It's the best way.
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In reply to Post #28
Ironic...
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In reply to Post #27
You can take a horse to water but cannot make it drink!
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In reply to Post #25
I knew you had a rep on here for ridiculous posts but jeez
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In reply to Post #26
No no do explain cos atm your looking like the normal idiots on fbook who make claims but actually understand none of it
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In reply to Post #23
I thought you might not understand simple physics so i even explained the principles behind one side of a loop moving before the other side, the more you post about this subject just heightens my original view
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In reply to Post #24
If you say so chap. You are completely wrong though. It is a FAIRLY accurate way, as I've said not as accurate as line testing machines no, but still good enough to get a decent idea of what's going on.
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In reply to Post #21
Unless your testing it using an actual line testing device that is secured then no it’s not accurate in the slightest scales are spring loaded and by their very nature will be innaccurate for testing the breaking strain
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In reply to Post #22
What physics are those lol I’m general when people say it’s simple physics they actually have no clue about physics and physics by their very nature aren’t simple lol
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In reply to Post #20
A crimped loop will nearly always be weaker than a crimped connection without a loop simple physics its highly unlikely both sides of the loop will be crimped equally so one will slip before the other causing a weakness without a loop it doesn't slip.
Testing something by applying pressure until it breaks is a very good and true way of testing a knot or crimped connection breaking strain on any given material.
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In reply to Post #20
Sorry but you're wrong. Of course you exert pressure and pull, it's how you do a pull test! . I don't know why you think anything will judder for starters, a smooth pull prevents that. It's not 100% accurate, but it's close enough to test your rigs with. I first tested line some 30 years ago using scales, and on the very few times since then I've felt the need to test anything I've used it again. Without some seriously expensive equipment it's as accurate as us anglers can get with what's at our disposal.
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In reply to Post #19
No it’s not your exerting pressure and pulling which will
Judder and cause innaccurate measurements boom krimped with a loop breaks a couple lb under the stated strain but with no loop it’s higher same with hybrid with a loop couple lb under but with no loop actually breaks at 30lb so yes that method is clearly innaccurate
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In reply to Post #15
Not really, it's close enough to get a decent idea
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In reply to Post #17
I've never tested anything apart from using a pulla tool just to tighten or straighten. don't see why you would need to. i can honestly say hand on heart ive never had a knot or krimp go.
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In reply to Post #15
I would think its a good way of testing the strength of knots or crimps for that matter on a chosen line, this way doesn't test the true linear breaking strain of a line as knots or a connection are involved but in most fishing situations that i can think of i use knots
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In reply to Post #15
I'll take your word for it , thanks
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In reply to Post #13
Very innaccurate way of measuring the poundage it’s snapping at
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In reply to Post #13
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In reply to Post #11
I'd say most anglers have a set of scales...
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In reply to Post #11
Figure of 8 loop pal job done. You can buy a little tool on line that makes it easier if your struggling. Just type loop tyre into eBay.
Brent
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In reply to Post #10
Got a machine have ya??
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In reply to Post #1
I've just started doing this after an issue with crimps, it's really easy using a figure of 8 knot just don't attach the hook until you've tied the ring swivel on .
I can easily get a loop as small as I did crimping .
Also found 25lb boom snapped at around 24lb with a figure of 8 knot both ends .
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In reply to Post #1
Get your line, thread it through the ring\swivel, double the line up so you effectively have a loop with a ring\swivel on it, then tie the figure of eight as normal, carrying the ring\swivel.
Or am I missing something in the question?
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In reply to Post #6
Rapala knot is nearly always pictured on a lure😉
It is the loop knot I always use whenever I need a loop.
Rapala loop knot link
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In reply to Post #6
Krimp or korda recommend the perfection loop knot
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In reply to Post #5
No probs, mate.
Some of those sea fishing and predator videos are pretty good. The non slip loop knot and rapala knot are used carp fishing now, same as the figure 8, but they all started out for using with lures
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In reply to Post #4
Thanks buddy that hits the mark bang on, if you dont know, you don't know?
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In reply to Post #3
Try this:
https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/double-figure-8-loop-knot/
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In reply to Post #2
I know the knot feller well enough, it's how you get it on the ring.
To do the knot you need to pass the loop though the ring twice, but the ring is attached to the hook. Are you making a massive loop for all the items to go through, or are you doing it from the other end? I'm just looking for the easiest way, thanks.
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In reply to Post #1
Google figure of 8 loop knot
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Might seem an odd question, but how do you get a loop on a small ring at the end of the Ronnie rig please?
I've seen it done in fluorocarbon and braid, but cannot see how to achieve it, hope you get what I'm asking. This is a knot and not a crimp, thanks all.
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