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In reply to Post #39
You're welcome mate... I've used flying and running ones but not used captive ones yet
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In reply to Post #38
Thanks for that mate, I've used the running backleads in that case, the captive ones I had were the Fox ones attache to a long length of some bright orange braid
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In reply to Post #37
A flying backlead stays on the line for the cast, and then flies back up the line landing a bit behind your rig. These are good when the clear area is small or you have depth changes/features between the rods and your rig to deal with making the next two less effective at pinning the line down.
A normal running backlead gets clipped on your line after casting out and would generally stay on until you wind in. This is good when there is no weed, although most do drop off now if they become snagged. You can swing them out further than captive ones so they are good for lakes with a marginal shelf drop off or marginal weed.
The captive backleads come off on the pickup but have to stay pretty much under the rod tips, that's OK if it's pinning your line down to the bottom all the way to the rigs and there are no obstructions in the way.
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Just to add to things, flyting or captive backleads?
I've used both in the past and felt happier with the captive ones that drop off on the take or when you lift the rod.
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In reply to Post #1
I use the Rig Marole clip on backleads and absolutely love them.
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In reply to Post #34
There's a good article on backleads and when to use them on the carpology website by Rob Hughes
Answers pretty much everything you'd need to know about them
Well worth a read, Hughes always gets it spot on with the underwater knowledge he has.
Just go to the Carpology website and search backlead in the search bar
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In reply to Post #33
Thanks for the last few replies. I did kinda think the same, but when two or three people enforce the point, it just makes you thinks it's worth checking. I'm not very knowledgeable about carp fishing so it's important for me to understand little bits as I go along. Thanks again.
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I don't think you can get a precise answer because objects weigh less underwater due to displacement... 1oz on land is not as heavy underwater.
As long as it holds bottom it will be fine, never really had an issue that's led to me thinking about it in reality.
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Just buy a pack of backleads and use them. That's it, all they do is hold line that sinks anyway on the bottom.
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In reply to Post #29
You are way over thinking it. Don't he so fixated on what weighs what, it's pretty much irrelevant.
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In reply to Post #29
Used the Fox captive back leads for years and never even thought about what weight they are. The line moves through the gate or if a take occurs the gate opens.
I did change the horrible lime green or orange braid to ESP lead core leader with the lead removed.
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In reply to Post #28
Probably.... But I'm just trying to get it clear in my head.
My indicators are 16g, but I'd only slide and use the full weight if fishing at distance... and if I was, I wouldn't normally need backleads.
If I was mid water, I'd use half the slider so I suppose half the weight of 8g. It just seems that 9g+ is a lot of weight to use for that approach, but I'd be willing if needed.
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In reply to Post #26
I think you’re over thinking it mate. your back leads should generally be as light as possible but obviously heavier than your hangers.
i would say at least half an ounce and no more than one ounce.
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In reply to Post #26
Anyone?
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In reply to Post #20
Hi, sorry for bumping this, but I'm after some advice. I don't fish often so I've never really thought of the importance of some of the things mentioned in the discussion. Any advice would be really appreciated:
I have the fox mini swingers. I was sold on these as they apparently cater for all scenarios. They have a 16g sliding weight, but all I know is that I should have the weight tight up to the gate when fishing at distance (100yd+) and I should tighten the line to get the best indication. The other option (I know of) is to push the slider all the way towards the opposite end if fishing close in, like a margin, cause I'll be slack lining. If I'm out at my normal range of 50 to 80 yards, I just put it in the middle. Is that about right?
I don't like tightening up the line too much so the idea of a back lead sounds pretty good. But this brings up another issue. I use 3.5oz gemini arc leads (confidence issue more than anything) so I don't know what weight back leads I'd need to use. The total of my arc lead is obviously 3.5oz (on a heli style system) and the slider is 16g (so 4.06oz total). What weight back leads do I need?
I honestly think they will help with my fishing as I fish a pretty weed free water with depths of around 2ft in the margin, down to 8ft in the middle with no snags and plenty of gravel patches in varying sizes.
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In reply to Post #24
I use back leads when ever I can, saves a lot of hassle playing fish in keeping the other lines pinned down out of the way, but that's just my opinion. The best ones I've found and used for years are the Solar ones with a 1/4oz ayrsley bomb on it, easy to clip on and take off and very rarely ever lose one 
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Thanks for the reply’s guys. It has given me a much better understanding, going through my box of odd leads I have found quite a few in different weights and I have adjustable weight indicators so I should be able to work out what works for me and what don’t
I have some of the gardener captive back leads that I like the idea of, what is your option of them ?
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I always use the lightest back lead I can get away with, I use delkim slimlite indicators and use 7 gram Korea back leads I dont want to use big heavy ones in my opinion it reduces indication massively so I would only use really light ones
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In reply to Post #13
index finger on the spool as you pick it up it becomes automatic after a while you don’t think about it
I always add in a tiny flick as well..
Isn’t dropping back leads being treated the same as dropping a normal lead??
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In reply to Post #20
Interesting, you are the second person to make the comment about weight of back leads, but, and it might be that it is peculiar just to my situation, I use very light backleads with quite lightweight indicators very successfully. Yes the backlead rises off the bottom at the same time the indicator moves but as long as the indicators are not completely slack the buzzer always sounds at the same time.
I generally only use backleads for two reasons, to avoid the problem of playing fish in a restricted swim and even then only up to about 60yds range and secondly to make sure line is pinned down on close range rods.
I have used them at range when I agree a heavier backlead is required, in this situation I use the fox tethered ones.
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As said elsewhere, just remember to have back leads heavier than your indicators else the backlead will lift and you'll see no indication.
Gardner do great captive back leads that are heavy and release upon a strike .
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So as I am going through my kit tonight getting ready for Friday I find two quick release ones. Now my ocd is telling me I need another one to make the set.
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In reply to Post #12
I stopped using them for this reason, limited indication at times and not worth putting the fish at risk, especially if you are fishing in or around snags.
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I suppose the Korda ones drop every time do they? 
I'm far less scientific about backleads - maybe to my detriment. I'm only interested in getting the line sunk and, by having my rods low, I doubt that a take will move the bait far without registering at the indicators. I can only see problems if using a 2-3oz back lead. I sometimes just wrap plasticine around the bottom of a backlead clip to help sink the line in front of me in a tight swim, it helps avoid tangles when landing fish.
Maybe I am going about it all wrong but hey ho, I'm still catching.
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In reply to Post #15
And thats it as you say in the right situation.
For example the fox captive back leads I use on a lake with sailing and water skiing and as long as you not fishing over high weed.
Sometimes I use them when I fish with a boat as it makes getting in and out of the swim safer.
Good luck .
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Thanks again guys. I am getting the idea. And will give em a go when I am next in the right situation
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In reply to Post #13
That helps for sure
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In reply to Post #12
If using the fox captive back leads , I always clip the line up as when the line tightens to the clip on a take it makes the back lead come of cleanly and not bouncing around and then tangling around your line .
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In reply to Post #11
Superb bits of kit in the right situation , open water no snags or weed and room to play with around the rod tips
Anything other than that and they can be a liability, limited indication, chance of wiping your other rods out while playing fish and the chance of losing the big one
If it all aligns then great if not nothing but trouble
I love em but they need treating with some thought
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Rarely have a bait out without one.
I buy them in bulk off eBay when I see a decent deal.
All in the clip for me - I want them virtually disposable, that is if I carefully reel in I can keep them but if I pull into a take that thing is gone.
Look at the clip on this link, filmsy as hell- perfect 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carp-Back-Leads-10-x-1oz-approx-Camo-plastic-Coated-Carp-fishing-back-leads/264478742810?hash=item3d9429591a:g:npkAAOSwXc9cMglW
Those are spot on.
Tommy Thomas's post below is spot on too - make sure your indication is still sensitive enough.
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In reply to Post #2
3
I tend to use captive back leads and fly back leads along with lead-core when I can. Although lead core isn’t the 3 that was 1/4 and 1/2 ounces leads attached to curtain rings and silicon tube to close the curtain ring loop, although they quickly evolved and hit the market place during the 90s.
Fly back leads came around during the last 10 or so years although large bore bullet shot was about in the 90s.
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In reply to Post #1
Really depends on what's in front of you , if the lake is completely flat on the bottom and there is no weed etc between your rods and rig then back leads are a good way of getting your line pinned to the bottom to stop your other rods being wiped out by fish swimming through the lines.
Another way to consider if there is weed beds and snags etc is to position your rod wll back in your swim so that just the end eye is above the water and to use a slack or semi slack line.
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I love using backleads
The important thing is they MUST be heavier than the FULL possible weight of your indicators, otherwise you will get kiting and indication issues
Get a cheap set of digital scales for a fiver and check it all out, then you will have no problems whatsoever
Don't muck about, I just have a backlead that is nearly twice as heavy as whichever set of my indicators I am using
PS The Korda Intelligent ones are by MILES the best and worth every expensive penny, I have been on them for absolutely years now. The Fox Captive ones are good too but you have to oil and maintain the gate latch - I use the latter occassionally in the big 3oz ones when I want a very tight line and super heavy bobbin on
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In reply to Post #4
Thanks that info never gave that a thought about equal weight but it does make sense
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In reply to Post #3
Nearly all my gear was released in the 90s so should be at home with them
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In reply to Post #2
Well described for me. Flying ones sound like a whole heap of trouble to me , the slip on ones I have a few of but never used. Do they come off ? As I have some with a loop for tying them to the bank sticks or a peg.
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If you use flying back leads beware of line twist which can ruin their use. If using back leads go for the type that can easily detach if snagged. Relate the weight of the back lead to the weight of the casting lead too light and it's pointless. Which means is it really necessary, as it Will reduce your indication somewhat.
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In reply to Post #1
21st century lol
Fox released a captive back leads in the 90s so technically old school
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There are two types, flying back leads - that are threaded on your line and 'fly' along it when you cast and pin the line down. Or some that you slip onto your line after the cast via a release clip and place in the position you want. They have a free run ring to allow minimal friction.
Not very well described but if you look at them in a tackle shop, you'll work it out.
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I am slowly getting dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century and after having a couple of fish causing me problems with the other rods my boys tell me I should be using backloads..
Do you guys tie them on or just leave em hanging ? And if you tie em what length line would you use or ?
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