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In reply to Post #32
I keep a pair of cutters in my tackle box specifically for hooks that look like the will be difficult to remove. If it doesn't move from a touch with forceps, then the hook is being cut.
I think the last fish I had to cut a hook to remove it was back in 2009, when a long shank hook went in, and the point was sticking out and round after hooking in the mouth. The hook was effectively stuck in position, so far less damage to cut the shank as far down as possible and gently pull the point and bend out.
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In reply to Post #34
Totally agree with you mate it's not the hook it's the angler using them trying to bully them in
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I think mouth damage has a lot more to do with the way people remove the hook and play the fish rather than anything else.
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all i use is longshanks even on choddys, and i never ever get mouth damage
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In reply to Post #23
Gerry has it spot on in the majority. Normal straight shank Longshank hooks are much less of a problem when it comes to damage potential, but the long shanked curved patterns such as the Longshank Nailer, Fox Series 5, 360 patterns, etc do have the tendency to double hook should the fish be on the smaller size or have smaller mouth's due to the way the hook has a larger radius to rotate around if the hookhold become loose on a slackish line after netting etc in the same way a traditional bent hook can. This is the reason I always have a pair of side cutters in my unhooking kit as the same can happen with standard hook patterns also (although much lesser risk).
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In reply to Post #29
There’s some pretty big fish out there with small mouths, and some doubles with huge mouths.
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In reply to Post #29
Please explain?
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In reply to Post #26
your completely missing the point >>>>>>>>>>>>>its the SIZE of the mouth thats important mate
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In reply to Post #23
Agreed 👍🎣🇫🇷
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In reply to Post #23
A double in a gravel pit is going to have a much tougher mouth than a 30lb fish in a silty water.
Surely your use of longshanks should be water/topography dependant going by your own logic?
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In reply to Post #1
I’m sure you’re right that the way a fish is played can and does sometimes cause extra damage, but think about what happens when a carp is trying to turn.
The hook is embedded in the carp’s lip (hopefully), so the further away the hook eye is from the point, the more leverage and twist is exerted on the hook point.
Add to that an oversize hook relative to fish size, the longer hook shank catching on the net, the increased chance of double hooking that some anglers have witnessed and it’s no wonder that fishery owners often specify limits on hook patterns, sizes, and tackle.
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Hmm, my opinion, I've used Long Shank Hooks since Fox brought them out in the 90's and I've never had a problem with them, but like Gerry has said I think there is a definate issue which I think is due to size of hook to size of fish.
I normally only fish for doubles on the whole, use a size 8, no issues with singles/doubles or bigger, though can slip if a lot bigger (as can any smaller hook). Abroad where I expect the fish to be bigger I fish a size 4, again no issues.
I do think Long Shank can cuase problems if used incorrectly, as for the super LS, curved or straight, I wouldn't use them.
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PESONAL CHOICE !
I will only use long shank hooks now on waters where the average size is over 30lb no **** will convince me that a long shank hook in double figure fish does not cause damage ..............as I know it does !! and there is no advantage just disadvantages IMHO
but in big fish it dont happen though ?
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In reply to Post #1
Never had issues with long shank hooks personally.
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In reply to Post #20
I Agree at least cut the hooklink or remove with a quicklink
I’ve had crimps catch on the net to be honest
Longshank hooks can and do get caught in the net
Got to applaud cutting the hook 👍🏻
Just comes down to each individual judging what’s acceptable
Remember it is a hook and it can damage the fish
I’m sure I’m not alone when it goes wrong , fail hooking etc
Leaves me sick to the stomach
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General Carp Discussion