|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #23
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #19
I know, many years ago I had fish to mid 20's on 4lb line and a Bruce & Walker carp rod and Mitchell 300, even then it was very difficult to break that line (only fished in open water obviously).
We know how hard it is to break 15lb line in a straight pull, my concern is that novice carp anglers will read this thread and assume that if they just put the rod down and point it at the fish they will be able to land that fish quicker because they are pulling it in harder, when in reality they are probably going to rip its mouth to bits and lose it.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #22
I was fishing a good few rods out to the left. Fish there run straight for that overhang. Ended up fishing a very tight clutch , so that they couldnt move much on the take. That side pull gently turned it. I couldnt have pulled the other way due to space. All ended up fine. Didnt lose any fish.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #21
Did you get snagged mate, they know where they all are, hang on! 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #19
We used to use 10ft fibreglass rods with 8lb maxima line and hooklength. Never used to lose fish but it took a lot longer to land them. I remember taking 30 minutes to land 20lb fish. That was really giving them some stick too.
|
|
| | | noj | | Posts: 11459 | | | Social photographer... | |
|
In reply to Post #16
I’m not advocating hand lining or flat rodding as a matter of course, just stating how the highest pressure is applied.
It could also be argued that by using a high rod with modern casting pokers you could potentially cause more damage as the lack of pressure means an incorrectly set hook is free to move around as it’s not driven all the way home.
My point is that you’d be lucky to apply 5lb of pressure with a rod used as suggested, yet we use 15lb+ main line and a 25lb hooklink with a size 4 hook. When people were catching the same fish with cane rods, 8lb mono and a thin wire hook.
|
|
|
|
Most fish will do the opposite of what you do as they try to shed the hook 
Years ago as a youth I was once watching the great Tommy Pickering hauling bream out of a local water. Every time he hooked one, put his rod to the side and played it in. I asked him why, he was fishing deep water, put your your down they will up in the water, you just guide them towards you then. Fish will do the opposite of what you do, pull the rod up high they will go down. Low they will come up. 
If i ever you want to tire a fish out quick put the rod tip right under the water, they will surface and take a proper gob full of air, trouble is they can shed the hook easily 
They do the opposite you want them to do, pull left, they will go right. If they are already out left sometimes they come straight into the bank, for the nearest snags!
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #15
I remember when everyone used to pick up the rod on a take. Then take a couple of steps backwards and strike the rod a couple of times at the same time as winding in to take up the slack. Tackle has moved on and modern rigs are more efficient hookers. Low stretch lines make a big difference too.
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #15
I want to play a fish into the net with the least chance of pulling the hook out and the least chance of doing damage to that fishes mouth.
For that reason I will generally keep the rod high but use side strain when appropriate (fish trying for snags, to get behind an island etc). Hand lining or flat rodding to put maximum pressure on is something I have rarely had to do, and even then it's normally nothing to do with a fish but when I'm snagged.
IMO modern carp tackle is perfectly capable of damaging fishes mouths when used incorrectly. For most situations therefore keeping the rod high is the correct way.
|
|
| | | noj | | Posts: 11459 | | | Social photographer... | |
|
The most pressure you could apply would be to put the rod on the floor and hand line it in.
Every inch of rod works against you, hence subconsciously grabbing the blank by the spigot to increase leverage.
All the usual talk of hookpulls with high tc rods is cobblers, because if it’s up at 11-12 o’clock as is the norm you couldn’t pull the skin off a banana and probably haven’t set the hook to begin with.
By flat rodding yourself either straight on or to the side and applying the pressure with the 6 or so inches in front of the reel you’re fighting the fish.
Poncing about with the rod up high is playing it.... and not necessary with the line/hooklinks used in carp angling. Looks the part though and feels as if you haven’t gone in too over gunned with the line diameters and hook gauge
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #13
When fishing with a pole and you hook a decent carp ..if it kites and you put the tip of the pole in the water the fish will then start swimming towards you....
Putting the pole in the water does the above and also can put resistance on the elastic should you snap off and will hopefully prevent the line connector from hitting the tip of the pole and causing your top section to split.
|
|
|
|
|
You should also factor in the extra pressure being applied by keeping all that line in the water, there's an awful lot of drag in trying to pull .35 mono through the water when the fish is kiting. If most of that line is in the air it's a lot easier for the fish to change direction
|
|
|
|
In reply to Post #11
I play them on the side especially when fishing at distance as it it also makes the fish rise to the surface and doesn't wipe my lines out or get in the weed beds. Its very weird but you can actually turn the fish by playing it to the side it is running? I was told about it but didn't think it would work as it goes against everything ive ever been told.
|
|
| | | mal | | Posts: 8986 |  | |
|
|
Definitely a mix of the two which varies with each fish and the differences in the water in front of me. Shallower waters will be different than deeper, avoiding weed beds etc with hard side strain. I would say I always bring to the net Rod up as it's just easier
|
|
General Carp Discussion