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   photography thread.
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   Old Thread  #49 22 Dec 2008 at 5.21pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #45
those pictures are amazing
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   Old Thread  #48 22 Dec 2008 at 5.05pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
i have a website with some amazing scenery shots on if you would all like to see?
www.interfacelift.com
some of them are breath-taking
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   Old Thread  #47 22 Dec 2008 at 4.37pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
them pictures are completely out of this world
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   Old Thread  #46 22 Dec 2008 at 12.49pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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Wow,i can honestly say ive never seen such awesome photography in my life, those shots are nothing short of miraculous.
I guess its plain to see from these snaps.....that its all about the timing,being at the right place at the right time with the right equiptment.
Thanks for linking us up with them 9
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   Old Thread  #45 21 Dec 2008 at 11.42am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Some of you may appreciate this collection of some of the best photojournalism of the past year.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
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   Old Thread  #44 21 Dec 2008 at 11.08am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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I've had a look at the review on dpreview and all seems ideal for the beginner to the SLR world. There are a few little things that I would miss but it is an entry-level camera so they can be excused.

If you are going to at all get serious about photography then remember that the camera you buy now could/should be the first part of what is going to be a system. More lenses, a flash and an upgraded body or two over the years and you'll find you really don't want to be changing makes as it gets very expensive to change the lot each time. Nikon (or Canon I suppose) offer the largest range and I would stick with them if you are looking for a starter camera.
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   Old Thread  #43 21 Dec 2008 at 9.18am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
Can anyone recommend a digital slr for someone buying one for the first time been looking at the nikon d60
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   Old Thread  #42 20 Dec 2008 at 8.57pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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Don't take this the wrong way Gazzer but I think you don't really need that masterclass book just yet.
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   Old Thread  #41 17 Dec 2008 at 9.29am Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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Sound advice lads, thanks Dave,i think i mananged to take it all in,lol.
I think i just need more practice and keep reffering to the info in this thread as its all gradually gonna sink in,i think i get the whole exp thing now,and understand a little more about iso thanx to you guys, the efix data i posted here is for the dog shot tho.
I also have a digital photography book by tom ang, very good beginners book,its not the masterclass book tho so maybe i need a copy as i find his way of explaining things quite easy to absorb
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   Old Thread  #40 16 Dec 2008 at 11.12pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
i had a good book bought for me for my birthday recently. Its called digital photography masterclass (written by Tom Ang)

seems pretty good so far so could be worth a look

excellent thread so far chaps and im learning alot just reading it. I did a photography module at college a fair few years ago but it was mainly using non digital cameras and processing films in the dark room.

Keep it going
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   Old Thread  #39 16 Dec 2008 at 10.38pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
I'm by no means any sort of authority on photography, far from it and my camera isn't half as powerful as yours, but a few things I'd do with the dog shot are - lower the ISO, not sure if that EXIF is for the dog shot or the bridge shot, but with that amount of daylight I would certainly be dropping the ISO from 400. The lower the ISO, the better the quality of the shot and crispness of detail. Outside in the daylight i'd go straight to ISO 80 (which is as low as my camera goes), and as the light fades step this up as necessary.

Also, try increasing shutter speed a bit, it's a still image so should only make things better. The faster the exposure, the less chance you have of getting blurred edges as the shot will pick up less movement.

The aperture needs to be balanced with the exposure, there is a trade off between the amount of light entering the lens and the depth of field (the crispness of things infront and behind the subject). Narrowing the aperture (increasing the f-number) will help to crisp up the the whole of the photo, but a narrow aperture and fast shutter = less light and this may make the picture too dark.

A narrow aperture will have a greater the field of depth, meaning that things infront and behind the subject (whatever the the camera is focusing on) will also be in focus. Usefull for scenic shots of bridges, across lakes, etc where you're not actually focusing on a particular thing.
However because the aperture is narrow and not letting in very much light, you either have to have good natural light, increase the exposure to grab more of the available light - introducing blur with camera shake, or raise the ISO - loosing quality
A wide aperture will have much less field of depth, meaning that the subject item will be in focus but the further things are away from the subject, the more blurred they will be. In its extreme, this can be used to good effect when taking photos of close up subjects making them appear very vivid. The increased aperture size means you can use fast shutter speeds because less light is needed, reducing blur from camera shake.

Exposure is the amount of time the shutter is open for. The longer it is open the more light can enter the lens, however, the side effect of this is that it captures more movement. If you are using the camera hand-held then it is virtually impossible to use an exposure of anything slower than 1/60th of a second and not introduce blur through camera shake. Although if you use a tripod you can keep the camera still and therefore use a narrow aperture to get a greater field of depth with less light. Shots with a long exposure can produce some mad effects. If you've ever seen those shots of a motorway or road at night, where you get the massive streaks of light from the car headlights... thats usually done with a 30 second exposure.

Have a play and see what works best. Take each shot with varying settings and then compare them close up on the PC, which is the acid test really especially for ISO. Two shots can look identical of a 3 inch LCD screen but when you blow them up to full size on the monitor you can see the differences.
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   Old Thread  #38 16 Dec 2008 at 10.15pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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not where i was thinking, i thought it was a bridge in bishops hull, somerset i used to fish off it many years ago, just looks the same
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   Old Thread  #37 16 Dec 2008 at 10.11pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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its the foot bridge over the frome in my village m8, (rode,somerset)
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   Old Thread  #36 16 Dec 2008 at 10.09pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
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Gazzer where is that pic from i'm sure i've seen that bridge before but can't put my finger on it
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   Old Thread  #35 16 Dec 2008 at 10.06pm Login so you can post / reply  Register so you can join in!
In reply to Post #34
EXIF this group of metadata is encoded in 12,790 bytes (12.5k)

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hows this lot????
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