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photography thread.
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Andy

Posts: 7974

#43 21 Dec 2008 at 9.18am

Can anyone recommend a digital slr for someone buying one for the first time been looking at the nikon d60

nine0six

Posts: 2572

#42 20 Dec 2008 at 8.57pm

In reply to Post #41
Don't take this the wrong way Gazzer but I think you don't really need that masterclass book just yet.

Gazzer

Posts: 4912

#41 17 Dec 2008 at 9.29am

In reply to Post #40
Sound advice lads, thanks Dave,i think i mananged to take it all in,lol.
I think i just need more practice and keep reffering to the info in this thread as its all gradually gonna sink in,i think i get the whole exp thing now,and understand a little more about iso thanx to you guys, the efix data i posted here is for the dog shot tho.
I also have a digital photography book by tom ang, very good beginners book,its not the masterclass book tho so maybe i need a copy as i find his way of explaining things quite easy to absorb

ianCA

Posts: 3245

#40 16 Dec 2008 at 11.12pm

i had a good book bought for me for my birthday recently. Its called digital photography masterclass (written by Tom Ang)

seems pretty good so far so could be worth a look

excellent thread so far chaps and im learning alot just reading it. I did a photography module at college a fair few years ago but it was mainly using non digital cameras and processing films in the dark room.

Keep it going

DaveToland

Posts: 7260

#39 16 Dec 2008 at 10.38pm

I'm by no means any sort of authority on photography, far from it and my camera isn't half as powerful as yours, but a few things I'd do with the dog shot are - lower the ISO, not sure if that EXIF is for the dog shot or the bridge shot, but with that amount of daylight I would certainly be dropping the ISO from 400. The lower the ISO, the better the quality of the shot and crispness of detail. Outside in the daylight i'd go straight to ISO 80 (which is as low as my camera goes), and as the light fades step this up as necessary.

Also, try increasing shutter speed a bit, it's a still image so should only make things better. The faster the exposure, the less chance you have of getting blurred edges as the shot will pick up less movement.

The aperture needs to be balanced with the exposure, there is a trade off between the amount of light entering the lens and the depth of field (the crispness of things infront and behind the subject). Narrowing the aperture (increasing the f-number) will help to crisp up the the whole of the photo, but a narrow aperture and fast shutter = less light and this may make the picture too dark.

A narrow aperture will have a greater the field of depth, meaning that things infront and behind the subject (whatever the the camera is focusing on) will also be in focus. Usefull for scenic shots of bridges, across lakes, etc where you're not actually focusing on a particular thing.
However because the aperture is narrow and not letting in very much light, you either have to have good natural light, increase the exposure to grab more of the available light - introducing blur with camera shake, or raise the ISO - loosing quality
A wide aperture will have much less field of depth, meaning that the subject item will be in focus but the further things are away from the subject, the more blurred they will be. In its extreme, this can be used to good effect when taking photos of close up subjects making them appear very vivid. The increased aperture size means you can use fast shutter speeds because less light is needed, reducing blur from camera shake.

Exposure is the amount of time the shutter is open for. The longer it is open the more light can enter the lens, however, the side effect of this is that it captures more movement. If you are using the camera hand-held then it is virtually impossible to use an exposure of anything slower than 1/60th of a second and not introduce blur through camera shake. Although if you use a tripod you can keep the camera still and therefore use a narrow aperture to get a greater field of depth with less light. Shots with a long exposure can produce some mad effects. If you've ever seen those shots of a motorway or road at night, where you get the massive streaks of light from the car headlights... thats usually done with a 30 second exposure.

Have a play and see what works best. Take each shot with varying settings and then compare them close up on the PC, which is the acid test really especially for ISO. Two shots can look identical of a 3 inch LCD screen but when you blow them up to full size on the monitor you can see the differences.

UncleGrizzly

Posts: 669

#38 16 Dec 2008 at 10.15pm

In reply to Post #37
not where i was thinking, i thought it was a bridge in bishops hull, somerset i used to fish off it many years ago, just looks the same

Gazzer

Posts: 4912

#37 16 Dec 2008 at 10.11pm

In reply to Post #36
its the foot bridge over the frome in my village m8, (rode,somerset)

UncleGrizzly

Posts: 669

#36 16 Dec 2008 at 10.09pm

In reply to Post #1
Gazzer where is that pic from i'm sure i've seen that bridge before but can't put my finger on it

Gazzer

Posts: 4912

#35 16 Dec 2008 at 10.06pm

In reply to Post #34
EXIF � this group of metadata is encoded in 12,790 bytes (12.5k)

Aperture Value 4.5
Color Space sRGB
Components Configuration YCbCr
Compressed Bits Per Pixel 3
Compression JPEG (old-style)
Create Date 2008:12:06 16:54:53
9 days, 21 hours, 7 minutes, 10 seconds ago
Custom Rendered Normal
Date/Time Original 2008:12:06 16:54:53
9 days, 21 hours, 7 minutes, 10 seconds ago
Exif Image Size 3,072 � 2,048
Exif Version 0221
Exposure Compensation 0
Exposure Mode Auto
Exposure Time 1/60
F Number 4.5
File Source Digital Camera
Flash Auto, Fired, Red-eye reduction
Flashpix Version 0100
Focal Length 33.0 mm
Focal Plane X Resolution 3,443.946188 pixels/inch
Focal Plane Y Resolution 3,442.016807 pixels/inch
ISO 400
Interoperability Index R98 - DCF basic file (sRGB)
Interoperability Version 0100
Make Canon
Max Aperture Value 4.5
Metering Mode Multi-segment
Camera Model Name Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL
Modify Date 2008:12:06 16:54:53
9 days, 21 hours, 7 minutes, 10 seconds ago
Orientation Horizontal (normal)
Related Image Height 2,048
Related Image Width 3,072
Resolution 180 pixels/inch
Scene Capture Type Standard
Sensing Method One-chip color area
Shutter Speed Value 1/60
Thumbnail Length 10,240
User Comment

White Balance Auto
Y Cb Cr Positioning Centered

MakerNotes � this group of metadata is encoded in 1,440 bytes (1.4k)

hows this lot????

Gazzer

Posts: 4912

#34 16 Dec 2008 at 10.04pm

In reply to Post #33
i loaded the same pic into the link u provided, does this give u all the info u need now???
http://regex.info/exif.cgi

edit
oh poo.....no it dont

Gazzer

Posts: 4912

#33 16 Dec 2008 at 9.59pm

In reply to Post #32
Cheers 9er, your a star, book hunting tomorow,and your right about the dog slightly out of focus,but its the best i did so far,i took it coz the sunset seemed to bring the dogs colour out,almost had it.,the table is more in focus,ill soon av it right

nine0six

Posts: 2572

#32 16 Dec 2008 at 9.43pm

In reply to Post #31
It's okay, there's a lot to take in and it can seem pretty daunting. Stick with it and try and find a good book to explain the terms and more importantly show examples that you can try and emulate. Once you start to choose how to set the camera instead of allowing the camera to choose for you it is important to know why you are doing it. It is the step between merely taking a snapshot and creating an image.

The dog is slightly out of focus and I would have been very close to the dog's face as the light on his/her coat looks lovely.

I've found an online EXIF reader. This will help a lot!

Gazzer

Posts: 4912

#31 16 Dec 2008 at 9.28pm

In reply to Post #30
I also half depress the button while it twitches the focus then click when its clear,but on some pics i have recently discovered that sometimes i twist the lense myself to bring the pic into focus,.....i bet your wetting yourself here m8

, i aint got a scooby doo what im doing.

Gazzer

Posts: 4912

#30 16 Dec 2008 at 9.25pm

In reply to Post #29
Sorry Nine,this must be real frustrating for you,ill try explain a bit more and ill put an example up,as explained earlier, the pic of the footbridge i took was in full auto mode on my canon eos,so i wasnt aware of what iso was, or ap etc,i just pointed and shot, and always hold the cam steady as poss to my face with my elbows into my chest,i havent the steadiest of hands but always struggle with taking consistently clear, and fully focused pics,now i know a pro has an "eye" for the perfect shot, and i certainly dont have that luxury/skill,so its normally a few pics of the scene or whatever and i keep the best one.i have pretty near perfect eyesight and dont wear specs,i can see when i have obviously just not held the cam steady and the shot is out of focus, but please look at this pic and you will see its full of colour, and reasonably in focus and clear/crisp,i merely wish to have all, well, much more of my pics this little bit clearer with more depth of colour.
Anyway,please feel free to criticize this pic, i trust your judgement fully,and its very much appreciated.

nine0six

Posts: 2572

#29 16 Dec 2008 at 9.10pm

In reply to Post #28
I'm sure someone will know how to get the EXIF data on a PC. Hopefully they will post this information soon.

If it is a bit flat and you were set at 100ISO then all that could have helped really is better kit and better weather.

If they are a little out of focus lets try to solve that. It could be camera shake or the focus. Do you wear glasses and can the viewfinder be adjusted to compensate? How are you holding the camera (at arms length or well supported against your face)? Are you using a shutter speed that is too low (a well supported grip on the camera with a shortish lens and I'd go no lower than 1/60th of a second)? Do you squeeze the shutter or snap at it with a heavy finger? Do you set the focus manually or use the autofocus?


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