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 #1264 19 May 2011 at 9.38pm | |   |
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In reply to Post #1263
Thanks for the replies guys, its all a bit complicated but i will have a go at loading the canon software, im sure I tried it with the usb lead and it did the same thing. I do have a kodak camera software loaded on which may be interfeering with it in some way so i will take that off first then load up the canon stuff and see what happens.
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#1263 19 May 2011 at 5.24pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1262
The G5 shoots RAW so it is possible that Manual is shooting in RAW.
So .... select M on the top dial. Press the Func button and see if RAW is displayed in the bottom left of the screen. If it is then change it to L. If it was then you will need to convert the images on the card (.CR2?) to JPG - Put convert RAW to jpg into Google and you should find something free if you haven't got the Canon tools
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#1262 19 May 2011 at 5.02pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1261
Got me scratching my head as well, does not make sense unless the camera has a raw image facility and this has been accessed accidently in which case the PC would not have a programme to open it as the Canon software has not been installed. Not familiar with this model, clutching at straws. 
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#1261 19 May 2011 at 4.39pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1260
On Windows the G5 is recognised in Explorer and it can be accessed like any drive. The fact that a shot taken in Manual is treated differently to one shot in Auto mode is plainly daft as they both end up as a .JPG.
I would be interested to know that if when the camera is connected via USB only all the image files are seen by the PC. There is no reason they shouldn't be.
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#1260 19 May 2011 at 4.11pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1258
Try using the Canon software that came with the camera. Once loaded plug the camera directly into a USB port with the lead supplied
Select the download option which transfers the files to your PC. In preferences you can select for this to happen each time you plug the camera in. Normally stores in the photo section or if you have an extra hard drive attached you can specify this location.
Not a good idea to keep taking the memory card out of the camera. If you don’t have enough space on your PC get a small auxiliary memory drive or desk top model to store your images. Once stored delete the photos off the memory card.
Spend some time deleting the shots you don’t want and put into folders for easy access the ones you do. Back up the contents of the auxiliary drive to CD and store in a different place.
Aux hard drives come in all shapes and sizes and prices. I have a mains 1000 gig model which cost around £80 and a passport model which has 300 gig capacity and is portable, costing around £40. If you don’t have enough USB ports you can get a USB hub which allows you to plug in extra devices as it acts as an extension.
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#1259 19 May 2011 at 3.35pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1258
What happens when you lust plug the camera in via the USB port?
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#1258 19 May 2011 at 3.29pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1257
Memory card goes in the slot on the front of the pc then the camera wizard comes up and follow instructions. it is not a specific canon software though so that might be a problem.
It loads up everything on the memory card except photo's taken in M setting. There are over 500 photo's on this card too, I really dont know why it keeps doing this..
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#1257 17 May 2011 at 9.27am | | |
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In reply to Post #1254
I have a canon G5 and when uploading photo's I cant upload anything taken in M setting. They appear on the camera but I cant get them to transfer to the computer with the photos taken in Auto. Is there something else i need to be doing??
This is daft. The M (Manual) setting only uses a potentially different aperture and speed to Auto .... the file size will be the same.
How do you connect the Canon .... through software or through Explorer?
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#1256 17 May 2011 at 8.14am | | |
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In reply to Post #1255
Hi Pete. Glad you’re winning, I find light colours often get blown out and loose definition. Having problems at the moment with some still life shots. Have had to resort to Photoshop to make the adjustments.
Should know the answer to this but for some reason I am a bit at sea
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#1255 17 May 2011 at 0.56am | | |
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Some really good tips in here fella's. 
No where near as good as some of you guys, but I'm slowly getting to grips with my D40.
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#1254 14 May 2011 at 8.52pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1253
Can anyone help?? I have a canon G5 and when uploading photo's I cant upload anything taken in M setting. They appear on the camera but I cant get them to transfer to the computer with the photos taken in Auto. Is there something else i need to be doing??
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#1253 11 May 2011 at 12.59pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1245
Very beautiful!
Thanks for the sharing.
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#1252 11 May 2011 at 9.30am | | |
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In reply to Post #1251
Useful information Mick,thanks
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#1251 11 May 2011 at 9.16am | | |
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In reply to Post #1
I was advised to post this here .... relevance to Canon users
Hello all ....
I am usually a lone angler. Have been for years and so have always had to take pictures of myself by myself. This has involved making attachments for the camera and using bulb releases and in recent years using a G5 with that filp around screen and remote.
However ....
A little while ago the remote stopped working with my G5 so I was forced into using a Canon EOS 1000D. I have a couple of these - one with the iR filter removed for astroimaging use (I am also an astroimager) and the other for general use which is unmodded.
Under "general use" I do time lapse photography. Normally I use a netbook to run the sequences for this but a while ago I purchased an intervalometer so I could do time lapse runs without the lappy. (I can run the camera off of a 12v battery and the memory card will hold 3000+ images so the whole thing will run for days if needed without running out of memory or power).
So my G5 died and I pressganged the 1000D into the mould of angling camera. Setting it up wasn't as easy as the G5 because it doesn't have a flip round screen but with the kit 18-55mm lens I could set the camera up about 5 feet from my cradle and it was wide angled enough to easily get everything in. It takes a few seconds longer and as I use a Velbon Mini tripod I am able to peg down the tripod base and the camera can be removed and replaced any number of times and still be exactly lined up. With film cameras it was the thing to fill the frame with your subject. With modern digitals - especuially if you have a 10mp image it is easy to get wider angle or get the camera further away and just crop. You don't lose any details at all.
As my 1000D didn't have any form of remote I had to use a wireless release (I photograph birds also - its useful for this) but to set the camera in timed mode, pick the fish up, control it and compose yourself in 10 seconds is a bit rich. The Canon has a Continuous shooting function and the ability to take up to 10 shots in a timed burst. Neither of these options are particularly useful - especially at night with the flash involved.
Enter the intervalometer. Now an intervalometer allows you to set ... a/ an initial delay before the first exposure. b/ the length of the exposure (only any use in astronomical imaging). c/the delay between each subsequent exposure and d/ the number of exposures.
All of a sudden, taking pictures of myself is very, very easy.
I have my 1000D in Tv mode and set the exposure length to 1/100 of a second for daylight shots. You can just leave it in Auto if you wish - good at night of course. The intervalometer is set to a 15second initial delay. The exposure length only matters if you are using Bulb on the camera and you won't be for fishing. I have the delay between images at 4 seconds and the number of exposures to take at 25. All of these numbers are adjustable. Now once set the intervalometer keeps those settings so you only have to dig it out at the start of a session and (as long as you haven't altered anything in the meantime) just plug it into the camera. Turn the camera on and press Start on the intervalometer. It is all auto from here. I can pick the fish up, get myself and the fish sorted whilst the camera is doing its own thing taking pictures every 4 seconds. It is so easy and stress free which also has to be better for the fish - no more putting down and picking up.
Intervalometers work on most Canons that can use a wired remote through a 3.5mm socket. Consult your camera manual or speak to a supplier They are not expensive (about £15 - put intervalometer into the search function on Amazon) and work very, very well indeed. I am using a JYC model but they are all pretty much the same.
I thought someone might find this useful
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#1250 10 May 2011 at 2.00pm | | |
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In reply to Post #1248
Many thanks for that link, Matt. The Sagan quote is so true yet it is poignant and self-castigating (of Man). The photo itself is just amazing, and like the earth rise photo further down the thread, it really does put our world in perspective.
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